Custom Frame Options – A Breakdown

Basic characteristics of the base model frame that will remain virtually unchanged are the tube-set and weight. Things that can change include the geometry, some of the frame components and the finish.

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Top Tube Length

Riders usually know what top tube length fits them, so for most of you, this is a simple decision. But keep in mind that if you use a steeper head angle your wheel base will be shorter unless you use a longer top tube. A more relaxed head angle will bring your bars back a bit. You get the picture.

Rear End Length

These rear-end lengths are with the wheel slammed forward. With so many different gear ratios, and half-links as well, there is a lot of variation in desired rear-end lengths. For the most part, short rear ends are more nimble and longer rear ends are more stable. We recommend picking a gear ratio and experimenting by putting chains of varying links on it, with and without half-links, depending on your preference and measuring from the center of the axle to the center of the BB. Give yourself about a 1/8” to get your chain on/off and pick your perfect rear-end length.

Please be aware that rear-end length can effect brake positioning, crank and sprocket clearance. Generally speaking, 175mm cranks and sprockets smaller than 30 teeth will work on modern frames. If you’re planning to use longer cranks or larger sprockets, please do your homework on rear-end lengths.

Please use drop-out drawings below to help determine your desired “slammed” rear-end measurement.

Head Angle

Head-Angles that are more relaxed (lower numbers) are more raked out and give you a longer wheelbase and a more stable ride. Steeper head-angles (higher numbers) give you a shorter wheelbase and offer a more responsive feel, although they can feel “squirrely” at high speeds.

Bottom Bracket Height

Theoretically, a lower center of gravity makes for a more stable ride. However some riders find a taller bottom bracket height more comfortable. One thing to consider with bottom bracket height is handlebar height. If you raise or drop your BB and don’t adjust your handlebar height accordingly, you might experience a whole new set of ride characteristics.

Bottom Bracket Options

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Mid Bottom Bracket
We use a standard 73mm Mid BB shell on all custom frames that call for them.

euro_bb

Euro Bottom Bracket
We use a standard 68mm Euro BB shell on all custom frames that call for them.

Head Tube Options

Both head tube options are CNC machined and are compatible with 41.8mm 45ºx45º integrated headsets.

fit_script_headtube

Engraved Fit Script Logo
Precision CNC engraved logo on the head tube.

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Smooth
Smooth head tube with 1.5” O.D. in the center and CNC machined chamfers on top and bottom.

Gyro Tabs

Both head tube options are available without Gyro tabs, with removable Gyro tabs, or with permanent welded on Gyro tabs.

Dropouts

All base model frames have their own drop-out design, and are available with 3/8″ or 14mm axle slots.

3/16” Thick
4Q Baked
Extended contact area with stays to increase stiffness
Dropout shape ideal for 34mm (1 3/8”) and larger pegs

Mac Frame Dropout

Mac Frame Dropout

Motomike Frame Dropout

Motomike Frame Dropout

Benny Frame Dropout

Benny Frame Dropout

Dugan Frame Droput

Dugan Frame Droput

Seat Clamp

Each seat clamp style offers its own advantages and is ultimately a personal choice.

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Integrated
We use an integrated seat-binder that has a separate nut and bolt to eliminate the chance of “stripping out” a permanent piece of your frame.

forged_seatclamp

Investment Cast
Similar to the standard integrated clamp, but with a wrap-around collar for extra strength and durability.

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Pivotal Base
We use an investment cast Pivotal base that is drilled on the bottom to remove weight while still being bulletproof. The height of the extension is 1″.

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Traditional Slot
Traditional slotted seat-tubes are the most versatile of all the seat clamp options. Custom frames with this option would take a 25.4mm post with a 28.6mm clamp.

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Wedge Ready
If you want to use a wedge style post, we can cut your seat-tube down for you.

Brake Mounts

We’ve got just about everybody covered with four brake mount options.

nobrakemounts

None
Most custom frames can be ordered without brake mounts and cable stops.

threadonbrakemounts

Thread-On 990 Mounts
Thread-on 990 mounts on the underside of seat-stays. Also has a Thread-on cable stop under the top-tube.

Welded On 990 Mounts
Permanently welded 990 mounts under the seat-stays comes with a welded on cable stop under the top-tube.

V-Brake Mounts All frames with V-Brake mounts come with 2 welded on cable stops under the top tube.

V-Brake Mounts
All frames with V-Brake mounts come with 2 welded on cable stops under the top tube.

Finish

Custom frames take between 4 and 6 weeks to complete depending on your choice of finish. Obviously the fastest finish for us to turn-around is RAW, which is bare metal. The CLEAR powder coating and STOCK COLOR powder coating takes a little longer. And CUSTOM COLORS take the longest to get done. Due to increased turn-around time and rising costs, chrome plating is not an option for custom frames.

We will work our hardest to make all estimated shipping deadlines but thought you should be aware of these turn-around issues.

Warranty

Warranty coverage on custom frames is the same as warranty coverage on stock frames. Please be aware, no charge replacements will only be made with stock frames. Cost replacements on custom frames within warranty period will be done at a 25% discount. We can also do no charge repairs on custom frames within warranty period where applicable. Return shipping to Fitbikeco will be customer’s responsibility.

Now that you’re armed with all the info, head on over to the CUSTOM FRAME page and build your own!